As Raoul’s marks 50 years in Soho, proprietor reflects on wild times, savory fare

Guy Raoul, a French chef, and his brother Serge, a television journalist, established their bistro, Raoul’s, in Soho, Manhattan, 50 years ago amid a challenging environment marked by organized crime. During the restaurant’s early years, the Raoul brothers contended not just with the demands of running a business but also with the threats of local mafia figures seeking protection payments. Their situation escalated to a violent encounter when the mob retaliated against their refusal to pay, damaging the restaurant’s windows.

In a creative attempt to deter further threats, Serge orchestrated a fake television shoot outside Raoul’s, which, astonishingly, succeeded in dissuading the mobsters. This ingenuity allowed the business to flourish, attracting a diverse clientele that included notable artists and celebrities over the decades.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary this week, Raoul’s has retained much of its original allure, maintaining a low-key profile while still delivering beloved French cuisine. The restaurant’s charm lies in its unchanged atmosphere, which includes a historic tenement building and a welcoming staff, some of whom have been with the establishment for decades. Its menu, which has shifted over the years, has recently revisited classic French dishes while also incorporating lighter options.

The bistro continues to serve as a cultural hub, hosting events and drawing patrons from the worlds of art and entertainment, including stars like Jennifer Lawrence and Quentin Tarantino.

Why this story matters:

  • Highlights the resilience of small businesses amid challenges, including organized crime.

Key takeaway:

  • Raoul’s has thrived for 50 years by preserving its unique atmosphere and adapting its menu while remaining a beloved local fixture.

Opposing viewpoint:

  • Some may argue that the insistence on maintaining historical authenticity may hinder adaptation to modern dining trends.

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